DAY ONE
After breakfast, discover Ensenada’s romantic past at the Riviera del Pacífico Cultural and Convention Center, centrally located on Blvd. Costero. Built in 1930, this former plush gambling casino allegedly was financed by Al Capone and managed by Jack Dempsey. It once hosted famous personalities like Johnny Weismuller, Myrna Loy, Lana Turner, Ali Khan and Dolores del Rio. Wander through the beautiful gardens landscaped with fountains, statuary and monuments detailing the history of Baja California. Tour the elegant Cathedral Ballroom and Casino Salon; explore the adjacent Museum of History with its creatively designed rupestrian pathway and exposition rooms; view an exhibition at the Galería de la Ciudad. Then sip a cool drink in the Andaluz Bar while admiring the original mural painted by Alfredo Ramos Martínez. Families with small children may opt to visit the well-equipped playground at the Parque Infantil (Children’s Park) on the premises.

Continue along Blvd. Costero to Av. Castillo. At the Centro Artesanal, visit Galería de Pérez Meillón with its fine selection of local Paipai and Kumiai Indian arts and Casas Grandes Pueblo pottery. Stroll along the waterfront malecón boardwalk and relax at Ventana al Mar Park with its monumental Mexican flag. Meander past the marinas and sportfishing docks to Baja California’s largest open-air seafood market and sample Ensenada’s original invention, the fish taco.

Cross Blvd. Costero and proceed one block to Paseo Calle Primera, Ensenada’s famous shopping district. Along this avenue and its side streets are all imaginable wares: handcrafted gold and silver jewelry, luxurious leather goods and huaraches, hand-painted dishes and pottery, designer clothing, handcarved furniture and sculptures, polished pewter, colorful piñatas, Cuban cigars and European perfumes, crystal and porcelain. When you’ve shopped to your heart’s content, relax with a margarita and enjoy sumptuous sidewalk dining at El Rey Sol or El Cid’s Burladero, or have a bite to eat nearby at one of the excellent hotel restaurants like El Osito (at Travelodge), Sorrento (at Baja Inn Cortez) or Molokai (at Baja Inn Santo Tomás).

Ready for a siesta? There’s still plenty of time to return to your lodgings for an early evening nap or a refreshing dip in the pool before going out on the town. Imbibe the local color and tasty margaritas at historic Hussong’s Cantina; sip tropical drinks and party hearty until the wee hours at the newly expanded Papas & Beer; dance the night away at Ochoa Disco Romance or San Nicolás Resort’s Disco Azteca. Have fun!

Limited to one day in Ensenada? Cali-Baja Tours and Bajarama de México offer city tours for both small and large groups that include the Riviera del Pacífico, Santo Tomás Winery and La Bufadora, plus golf packages and Valle de Guadalupe winery excursions (see Sightseeing in Recreation & Sports directory).


DAY TWO
Follow the Transpeninsular Highway south and turn west to Estero Beach Resort & RV Park. Although a few amenities are reserved solely for hotel guests, many of Estero Beach’s facilities are available to the public (for a fee) including the golf driving range, tennis courts, boat ramp, beach and, during spring and summer, rentals of water sports equipment like jet skis, wave runners and kayaks. A "must see" is the Estero Beach Museum which showcases an outstanding collection of folk art, artifacts and pre-Columbian art replicas entitled "40 Centuries of Mexican Culture." After strolling through the museum, visit the exquisite gift shops, then savor breakfast or lunch at the beachfront Las Terrazas Restaurant/Bar.Continue south on the Transpeninsular Highway and enter the town of Maneadero.

At the junction, turn west to La Bufadora, the famous natural blowhole located near the tip of the Punta Banda peninsula. The drive itself is quite scenic as the narrow road meanders through fertile farmlands, skirts rocky shorelines and winds along craggy cliffsides. Roadside stands offer fresh local produce, homemade tamales and jars of honey, cured olives and pickled vegetables Almost midway to La Bufadora is Art Gallery/Studio Los Arcos in the tiny community of Ejido Esteban Cantú. The selection of original paintings, sculptures and quality objets d’art created by Baja California’s most talented artists will gratify both browsers and serious collectors.

Ready to soak up the sun? Public access to the beach is available via a shaded pathway between La Jolla Beach Camp and Villarino RV Park & Campground at Km. 13. Stop at Villarino’s Taco Plaza or mini-market for a bite to eat or cold soda to go, and inquire about the nearby beachfront hot springs.

The paved road ends at La Bufadora, a magnificent tidewater blowhole that roars like a huge animal at bay when it spews water and foam into the air, often to heights of over 70 feet. Experience the views from the different observation decks (several with ramps for handicapped access) and admire the botanical garden. Shop at the myriad curio stands; sample tacos and the local specialty, churros — sticks of crispy deep-fried dough dipped in sugar. Or simply relax with a cold beer on the oceanview terrace of one of nearby restaurants. If hunger pangs hit while returning to Ensenada, savor exquisitely prepared fresh seafood at Haliotis, feast on Mexican and international cuisine at Las Cazuelas or taste tapas, paella and other Spanish dishes at El Rincon Gallego (at Hotel Las Dunas). For mouthwatering mesquite-grilled steaks and poultry in a western ambience, stop at Bronco’s Steakhouse.

Another optional side trip south, ideal for families, is an excursion to the historic valley of Santo Tomás, famous for its vineyards. Spend the day at El Palomar

Waterpark with its shaded picnic grounds complete with tables and barbeque grills. Swim in one of the pools; slide down the water toboggan; ride a paddle boat or air gondola; visit the adobe ruins of Misión de Santo Tomás de Aquino. Accompany your lunch or dinner at El Palomar Restaurant with a glass of Baja California wine.



DAY THREE
Start the day with a hearty breakfast (or weekend "all you can eat" buffet brunch) or pack a picnic lunch since restaurants will be few and far between the many vineyards in Mexico’s leading wine producing region.

Head north from downtown Ensenada, then drive northeast on Mexicali/Tecate Highway 3. As the road enters the tiny town of San Antonio de las Minas, vineyards begin to dominate the landscape. At Km. 90.5 turn right to visit Fiesta Farms, an organic herb and flower ranch cultivating over 180 varieties of culinary, medicinal and decorative plants on its premises. Fragrant herbs and herbal vinegars, dried floral arrangements, garlic or lavender wreaths, and chile ristras may be purchased at wholesale prices At the junction turn left into Francisco Zarco.

A town established by Russian immigrants of the Molokan sect who settled in the Guadalupe Valley in the early 1900s. Spend some time at the Museo Comunitario del Valle de Guadalupe, situated inside an original Russian home dating from 1905. The museum displays an interesting exhibition of photographs, farming implements and the historic memorabilia of Russian pioneer families plus crafts from the nearby Paipai and Kumiai Indian communities.

Continue along the dirt road and turn into Château Camou. Experience a complimentary winery tour that begins on the hillside with a dramatic view of luxuriant vineyards and Valle de Guadalupe. Explore the underground pressing and aging rooms, sample the fragrant wines, then purchase a bottle to share with friends.

Before rejoining the highway, visit the nearby site of Misión de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe del Norte, the last of the Baja California missions, founded by the Dominicans in 1834.

Continue northeast on the highway to the Calafia Valley, site of the Domecq Winery, Mexico’s oldest and largest producer of wines. Enjoy a complimentary tour of the facilities, then sample the many distinctive wines and brandies in the pleasantly appointed tasting room which overlooks the lush vineyards. Purchase a gift of wine for family or friends. Back on the highway, drive one third mile farther and turn off to L.A. Cetto Winery. Take a complimentary tour and sample the fine varietal wines, coolers, brandy and tequila. Visitors are welcome to purchase a bottle and picnic on the charming terrace perched above the vineyards.

Before returning to your lodgings, make your outing complete with a romantic oceanview dinner at Hotel Las Rosas, Restaurant Punta Morro or Restaurant Antares at Marina Coral, all conveniently located between the Highway 3 junction and central Ensenada.

So much to do and so little time? Spend an extra day in Ensenada!

Please check winery days and hours of operation before visitation. Tours of additional Guadalupe Valley wineries like Viña Liceaga, Mogor Badan and Monte Xanic are available only by appointment (see Wineries in Points of Interest directory).




DAY FOUR
Spend the day exploring additional sights or pursuing your own special interests!

• Arise early and go deep-sea fishing for yellowtail, halibut, bass and other local seasonal catches. Open party boats depart from Sergio’s Sportfishing Center daily at 7 am and return at 3 pm. Fares include rod, reel, hooks, sinkers, bait and license (see On The Water directory).

• With a reserved tee time, enjoy a round of golf at Bajamar Resort, offering a scenic 18-hole championship course plus 9 new Scottish links-style holes (4 next to the Pacific). Club rentals are available at the pro shop (see Recreation & Sports directory). After golf, enjoy a meal at Dos Lagos Restaurant or sip a refreshing drink at the Sandtrap Cocktail Lounge or El Mirador Tower Bar.

• Take a self-guided ecological tour of Ensenada (see City Map) and enjoy quality family vacation time. Pause at Revolución Park, once a botanical garden, and try to identify the many species of shade trees. Continue driving east on Av. Obregón to the Caracol Museo de Ciencias, a science museum especially appealing to youngsters with numerous exhibitions including saltwater aquariums and a Noah’s Ark with an exposition of endangered species.

While in the vicinity be sure to visit Tara, a huge, colorful statue built on site by sculptors from Nepal and Bhutan. Set in a small ecological park overlooking the city, this exotic cultural landmark and symbol of Mother Nature was presented as a gift of friendship by a Nepalese international cultural organization in 1993.

To conclude this tour of health and fitness, stop at La Milpa Central Naturista on Av. Espinoza & Calle 2 for a refreshing cup of herbal tea or "smart" tonic drink. Explore the large selection of natural and vegetarian foods, New Age and world classical music, alternative medicine remedies and natural cosmetics.

Another option for outdoor enthusiasts is to pack a lunch and spend the day hiking, mountain biking or picnicking by the shores of Laguna Hanson in the beautiful pine forests of Parque Nacional Constitución de 1857.

• More wine, anyone? By prior appointment, enjoy a tour and tasting of premium wines at Cavas Valmar, a small, charming boutique winery in downtown Ensenada . Continue on to Bodegas de Santo Tomás, Baja California’s oldest winery, offering daily guided tours at 11 am, 1 pm & 3 pm, followed by a sampling of select wines with bread and cheese. Shop for handmade arts and crafts at the adjoining Indian Artists Workshop or savor the Mexican-Mediterranean cuisine at the adjacent La Embotelladora Vieja Restaurant. Cross the street and discover a superb assortment of imported and domestic gourmet foods plus wines, tequilas, coffees and select cuts of meats at Mercado Super Pando, Il Buen Gusto and El Centro Carnicería. Enjoy a snack at Tapas San Jordi or Las Conchas Oyster Bar. Spend some time at La Esquina de Bodegas to view the gallery exhibits, browse through the bookstore/gift shop, and enjoy an espresso or glass of wine with an appetizer selection or specialty meal in the bistro restaurant.

• Take a self-guided walking tour of the historic Av. Ruiz / Av. López Mateos area and visit three of Ensenada’s oldest public buildings (see City Map). Start on Av. Gastélum near López Mateos at the Regional History Museum, located inside the 1886 military headquarters and former city jail. Then walk north two blocks on López Mateos to Av. Ryerson to view additional exhibitions at the Ex-Aduana Maritima, the former Maritime Customs House constructed in 1887. To fully satisfy your historical palate, backtrack to Av. Ruiz to raise a toast at Hussong’s Cantina, established in 1892. Shop for quality memorabilia for that "someone who has everything" at the Hussong’s or Papas & Beer Official Stores, or select a choice wine or brandy at the Domecq Boutique. While in the neighborhood, be sure to take a peek at the interesting and unusual merchandise offered at Mario’s Silver Shops, Bazar Casa Ramirez, Curios Plaza and El Escorial.

• Treat your kids to video games and go-carting, followed by burgers and ice cream, at Epocas Family Amusement Center (see Recreation & Sports directory). Then visit the larger-than-life "Three Heads" of Mexican heroes at Plaza Cívica before boarding a calandria (horse-drawn carriage) to tour Blvd. Costero.

• Secondhand-store junkies will flourish among the trash and treasures of Los Globos, a multi-block swap meet/produce market area on Calle 9 three blocks east of Reforma. Open daily, Ensenada’s bizarre bazaar attracts the most venders and vendees on weekends.




DAY FIVE
As one of the largest municipalities in the world, the County of Ensenada offers countless cultural, historical and ecological attractions. Just follow the Transpeninsular Highway south to discover the hidden treasures of Baja!

• SAN VICENTE, a small farming town with an interesting Community Museum and the San Vicente Ferrer mission ruins, an active archeological excavation site (50 miles south of Ensenada).

• COLONIA VICENTE GUERRERO, a rapidly growing agricultural community with the nearby adobe ruins of Misión Santo Domingo (100 miles south of Ensenada).

• SAN QUINTIN, a bustling agricultural center and paradise for outdoor aficionados with excellent fishing, hunting, hiking, clamming,, kayaking and birdwatching. Historical landmarks include the Old Mill, Old Pier and old English cemetery, all remnants of a 19th century British attempt at colonization (112 miles south of Ensenada).

• EL ROSARIO, the last town along the Highway with a full range of lodgings, stores and services until Guerrero Negro in Baja California Sur. Points of interest include a Community Museum and the adobe ruins of Misión El Rosario de Viñadaco (150 miles south of Ensenada). The turnoff to Misión San Fernando de Velicata is 37 miles further south.

• CATAVIÑA, a tiny community with a hotel and campgrounds situated in a desert garden oasis with unusual rock formations and many species of cacti and plants found nowhere else in the world (224 miles south of Ensenada). The turnoff to the Cataviña Cave Paintings is 2 miles north. A mile south is the junction to Rancho Santa Inés, the take-off point for the off-road drive and hike to the Santa María de los Angeles mission ruins.

• BAHIA DE LOS ANGELES, a tranquil fishing village on the Sea of Cortez with a full range of lodgings, stores, services and a Natural History and Cultural Museum (287 miles south of Ensenada on the Transpeninsular Highway, then 41 miles east on a paved road). "L.A. Bay" is popular among anglers, water sports enthusiasts and explorers of the nearby Montevideo cave paintings and Misión San Borja.

• SAN BORJA AND SANTA GERTRUDIS MISSIONS, the only two fully intact missions in Baja California, are truly dramatic and rewarding adventure expeditions for the well-equipped off-road traveler with a sturdy and/or high clearance vehicle (see Missions directory). Primitive camping is permitted. Check current road conditions before travel.

Can’t decide where to go? Expediciones de Turismo Ecológico y Aventura offers low impact, guided ecological tours for adventurers of all ability levels to rarely-visited natural and historical sites throughout the Baja peninsula (see Sightseeing in Recreation & Sports directory).

SAN MIGUEL ARCANGEL DE LA FRONTERA Protected adobe ruins of the Dominican mission established by Padre Luis Sales in 1787. Next to La Misión school at Km. 65.5 on Tijuana-Ensenada free road. (see map 1 )

NUESTRA SEÑORA DE GUADALUPE DEL NORTE A sign marks the original site of the Dominican mission founded in 1834. In Francisco Zarco, Valle de Guadalupe, just off Highway 3 to Tecate. (see map 2)

SANTO TOMAS DE AQUINO Adobe ruins of the second site of the mission founded by Dominicans in 1791. Located in Valle de Santo Tomás at El Palomar, 30 miles south of Ensenada on the Transpeninsular Highway. (see map 3)

SAN VICENTE FERRER Protected adobe ruins of the Dominican mission established in 1780. Drive west .7 miles on the signed dirt road just north of San Vicente near Km. 88 on the Transpeninsular Highway. (see map 4)

SANTO DOMINGO Preserved adobe ruins of the mission dedicated in 1775 by Dominican padres Manuel García and Miguel Hidalgo. Turn east near the bridge before Col. Vicente Guerrero on the Transpeninsular Highway. Follow the scenic 4.5-mile dirt road (not recommended for large RVs) to the mission. (see map 5)

EL ROSARIO DE VIÑADACO Protected adobe ruins of the Dominican mission founded in 1774 in El Rosario de Arriba (near the Delegación Office), and its second site in 1802 overlooking the riverbed near the Community Museum in El Rosario de Abajo. (see map 6)

SAN FERNANDO DE VELICATA Adobe ruins of the only Franciscan mission in Baja California, established by Padre Junípero Serra in 1769. Drive west 3.5 miles on the dirt road at Km. 114 on the Transpeninsular Highway. (see map 7)

SAN FRANCISCO DE BORJA ADAC Inaugurated by the Jesuits in 1762, San Borja is built of quarry stone and is one of Baja California’s two fully intact missions still in use. Best access is via the 23-mile dirt road off the Transpeninsular Highway, east of El Rosarito. (High clearance vehicle recommended. (See map 8)

SANTA GERTRUDIS LA MAGNA Founded by the Jesuits in 1752, Santa Gertrudis features its original freestanding bell tower and is one of Baja California’s two fully intact missions still in use. Best access is via the 37-mile dirt road northeast at Km. 154 (Ejido Mújica) on the Transpeninsular Highway, north of Vizcaino in Baja California Sur. (see map 9)

MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES

MUSEO DE HISTORIA (MUSEUM OF HISTORY) A creatively designed rupestrian pathway and exhibition rooms focus on the "Native People of Baja California" and "European Explorers and Missionaries." Open daily 9:30 am-2 pm & 3-5 pm. Donations. In the north end of the Riviera del Pacífico on Blvd. Costero, tel. 177-0594. (H-7)

MUSEO HISTORICO REGIONAL (REGIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM) A permanent display of "People and Cultures of Meso-America" plus temporary exhibitions in the 1886 military headquarters that served as the Ensenada jail until 1986. Open 10 am-5 pm, closed Mon. Donations. Av. Gastélum near Paseo Calle Primera, tel. 178-2531. (D-6)

EX-ADUANA MARITIMA Intriguing temporary cultural and historical exhibits in one of the oldest buildings in town, the former Maritime Customs House, built in 1887. Open Mon.-Fri. 9 am-4 pm. Av. Ryerson #99, tel/fax 178-2531. (C-6)

"CARACOL" MUSEO DE CIENCIAS (SCIENCE MUSEUM) Interesting exhibition halls dedicated to astronomy, physics, paleontology and marine sciences of Baja California. Open Tues.-Fri. 9 am-5 pm, Sat. & Sun. 12-5 pm, closed Mon. Donations. Av. Obregon #1463 between Calles 14 & 15, tel. 178-7192, fax 178-6335.

ESTERO BEACH MUSEUM An outstanding collection of folk art and artifacts entitled "40 Centuries of Mexican Culture" in chronological exhibition rooms. Open 9 am-1 pm & 2-5 pm, closed Tues. Donations. 6 miles south of town at Estero Beach Resort, tel. 176-6225.

MUSEO COMUNITARIO DEL VALLE DE GUADALUPE A fascinating exhibition of Russian memorabilia and local Indian artifacts in a Russian home dating from 1905. Open 9 am-5 pm, closed Mon. Donations. Across from Monte Xanic Winery in Francisco Zarco, Valle de Guadalupe, just off Highway 3 to Tecate, tel. 155-2030.

GALERIA DE PEREZ MEILLON Authentic native Paipai and Kumiai Indian crafts by local artisans, Tarahumara and Casas Grandes pottery. Open daily 10 am-6 pm. Blvd. Costero #1094-39 in Centro Artesanal, tel/fax 174-0394. (G-7)

GALERIA DE LA CUIDAD Monthly exhibitions of Baja California artists. Open 9 am-6 pm, closed Sat. & Sun. In the north end of the Riviera del Pacífico on Blvd. Costero, tel. 177-3130. (H-7)

GALERIA LA ESQUINA DE BODEGAS Monthly exhibitions of Mexican and international artists. Open 8 am-10 pm, closed Sun. Across from Bodegas de Santo Tomás on Av. Miramar & Calle 6, tel. 178-3557. (E-3)

TALLER DE ARTESANOS INDIGENAS Indian Artists Workshop with authentic Paipai and Kumiai arts and crafts. Open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 am-1:30 pm. At Bodegas de Santo Tomás, Av. Miramar #666, tel. 178-8780. (E-3)

ART GALLERY/STUDIO LOS ARCOS Original paintings, sculptures, fine and decorative arts by Baja California artists. Open Mon.-Sat. 10 am-5 pm, Sun. 10 am-3 pm, closed Tues. In Ejido Esteban Cantú on the road to La Bufadora in Punta Banda, tel. 154-2066, 154-2114.

PERFORMING ARTS Call for scheduled performances

TEATRO CULTURAL RIVIERA At the Riviera on Blvd. Costero, tel. 176-4233

TEATRO BENITO JUAREZ Av. Guadalupe between Calles 2&3, tel. 176-2850

TEATRO DE LA CIUDAD Av. Diamante s/n, tel. 177-0392

SALA DE TINTOS At Bodegas de Santo Tomás, Av. Miramar #666, tel. 174-0807

WINERIES

BODEGAS DE SANTO TOMAS Baja’s oldest winery with daily tours and wine tasting at 11 am, 1 pm & 3 pm ($2 dlls.). Av. Miramar #666 in Ensenada, tel. 174-0836, 174-0829, fax 178-3601, e-mail: bstwines@telnor.net (F3)

CAVAS VALMAR Free tours and wine tasting by appointment, tel/fax 178- 6405. Calle Ambar #810 & Riveroll in Ensenada.

VIÑA LICEAGA Wine tasting and tours Sat. 1 pm by appointment, tel. 184-0126, 84-1184, fax 184-0262. At Km. 93 on Highway 3 to Tecate.

MOGOR BADAN Tours and wine tasting by appointment, tel/fax 177-1484. At Rancho El Mogor at Km. 86.5 on Highway 3 to Tecate.

MONTE XANIC Wine tasting and tours ($2 dlls.) by appointment, tel. 174- 6769, 174-6155, fax 174-6848. Located in Francisco Zarco, Valle de Guadalupe, just off Highway 3 to Tecate.

CHATEAU CAMOU Free tours and wine tasting Mon.-Fri. 10 am-2 pm, Sat. 10 am-noon. Located in Francisco Zarco, Valle de Guadalupe, just off Highway 3 to Tecate. Large groups by appointment, tel. 177-2221, fax 176-0676

DOMECQ Free wine tasting & tours Mon.-Fri. 10 am-4 pm, Sat. 10 am- 1:30 pm. Located in Valle de Guadalupe at Km. 73 on Highway 3 to Tecate, tel. (615) 5-2249.

L.A. CETTO Free wine tasting and tours daily 10 am-4 pm. Located in Valle de Guadalupe at Km. 73.5 on Highway 3 to Tecate, tel. 155-2264, fax 155-2269.

LA BUFADORA An amazing natural blowhole spouting seawater 70 feet into the air. Newly renovated with botanical gardens and various observation decks, several with handicapped access. 22 miles south of Ensenada near the tip of Punta Banda peninsula. Small parking fee.

PARQUE NACIONAL CONSTITUCION DE 1857 (LAGUNA HANSON) A national park in the Sierra de Juárez with Laguna Hanson, a scenic lake surrounded by pine forests, unusual rock formations and excellent primitive campsites on its western shore. Small entrance fee; no facilities; rustic cabin rentals. Best access is via the 20-mile dirt road just east of Km. 55 on Highway 3 to Ojos Negros/San Felipe.

PARQUE NACIONAL SIERRA DE SAN PEDRO MARTIR The larger of Baja California’s two national parks with the Mexican National Observatory located near the peninsula’s highest peak, the 10,154 ft. Picacho del Diablo. This unspoiled wilderness is an ideal setting for hiking, backpacking and primitive camping. Small entrance fee; no facilities. Access via a 65-mile dirt road from San Telmo de Abajo, 80 miles south of Ensenada on the Transpeninsular Highway.

CATAVIÑA CAVE PAINTINGS The most easily accessible of Baja’s primitive rock art, thought to be 600 to 1000 years old. Vivid geometric and abstract pictographs cover the walls and ceiling of a small cave two miles north of Cataviña near Km. 170 on the Transpeninsular Highway.